Monday, January 30, 2006

Baja Safari Mexico Club SPECIALS!

Exclusive For Baja Safari Members!

Free Tour to the Baja San Felipe 250 Offroad Race, our annual event fills up every year so, get onboard today at safariclub@cox.net  Or, JOIN today at http://www.bajasafari.com/

More Free Tours!

Join the Baja Safari Mexico Club on the Race Course of the CABO 500!  Members get the behind the scenes extras, with all the race teams in La Paz and Cabo San Lucas, Southern Baja! The CABO 500 Tours are available from February 10 until May 7, 2006. Contact Janice for details at 619-470-1890.

 

 

  

February 6, 2006 Mexico Consular Information Sheet United States Department of State COUNTRY DESCRIPTION: Mexico is a Spanish-speaking country about three times the size of Texas, consisting of 31 states and one federal district. The capital is Mexico City. Mexico has a rapidly developing economy, ranked by the World Bank as the twelfth largest in the world. The climate ranges from tropical to desert, and the terrain consists of coastal lowlands, central high plateaus, and mountains of up to 18,000 feet. Many cities throughout Mexico are popular tourist destinations for U.S. citizens. Travelers should note that location-specific information contained below is not confined solely to those cities, but can reflect conditions throughout Mexico. Although the majority of visitors to Mexico thoroughly enjoy their stay, a small number experience difficulties and serious inconveniences. Read the Department of State Background Notes on Mexico for additional information. Travelers to Mexico should carefully read the section on Crime below. ENTRY REQUIREMENTS: The Government of Mexico requires that all U.S. citizens present proof of citizenship and photo identification for entry into Mexico. However, some U.S. citizens have encountered difficulty in boarding flights in Mexico without a passport. The U.S. Embassy recommends traveling with a valid U.S. passport to avoid delays or misunderstandings. A lost or stolen passport is easier to replace when outside of the United States than other evidence of citizenship. However, U.S. citizenship documents such as a certified copy (not a simple photocopy or facsimile) of a U.S. birth certificate, a Naturalization Certificate, a Consular Report of Birth Abroad, or a Certificate of Citizenship are acceptable. U.S. citizens boarding flights to Mexico should be prepared to present one of these documents as proof of U.S. citizenship, along with photo identification, such as a state or military issued ID. Driver’s licenses and permits, voter registration cards, affidavits and similar documents are not sufficient to prove citizenship for readmission into the United States. The Intelligence Reform and Terrorism Prevention Act of 2004 requires that by January 1, 2008, travelers to and from the Caribbean, Bermuda, Panama, Mexico and Canada have a passport or other secure, accepted document to enter or re-enter the United States. As of December 31, 2006, this requirement will apply to all air and sea travel to or from Mexico. Tourist Travel: U.S. citizens do not require a visa or a tourist card for tourist stays of 72 hours or less within “the border zone,” defined as an area between 20 to 30 kilometers of the border with the U.S., depending on the location. U.S. citizens traveling as tourists beyond the border zone or entering Mexico by air must pay a fee to obtain a tourist card, also known as an FM-T, available from Mexican consulates, Mexican border crossing points, Mexican tourism offices, airports within the border zone and most airlines serving Mexico. The fee for the tourist card is generally included in the price of a plane ticket for travelers arriving by air. Vehicle Permits: With the exception of travel to the Baja Peninsula, tourists wishing to travel beyond the border zone with their car must obtain a temporary import permit or risk having their car confiscated by Mexican customs officials. To acquire a permit, one must submit evidence of citizenship, title for the car, a car registration certificate, a driver’s license, and a processing fee to either a Banjercito branch located at a Mexican Customs (Aduanas) office at the port of entry, or at one of the Mexican Consulates located in Austin, Chicago, Dallas, Houston, Los Angeles, Sacramento, San Bernardino, or San Francisco. Mexican law also requires the posting of a bond at a Banjercito (Mexican Army Bank) office to guarantee the departure of the car from Mexico within a time period determined at the time of the application. For this purpose, American Express, Visa or MasterCard credit card holders will be asked to provide credit card information; others will need to make a cash deposit of between $200 and $400, depending on the age of the car. In order to recover this bond or avoid credit card charges, travelers must go to any Mexican Customs office immediately prior to departing Mexico. Disregard any advice, official or unofficial, that vehicle permits can be obtained at checkpoints in the interior of Mexico. Travelers should avoid individuals outside vehicle permit offices offering to obtain the permits without waiting in line, even if they appear to be government officials. There have been reports of fraudulent or counterfeit permits being issued outside of the doors of the vehicle import permit office in Nuevo Laredo and other border areas. If the proper permit was not obtained before entering Mexico and cannot be obtained at the Banjercito branch at the port of entry, do not proceed to the interior. Travelers without the proper permit may be incarcerated, fined and/or have their vehicle seized at immigration/customs checkpoints. For further information, contact Mexican Customs about appropriate vehicle permits. Business Travel: Upon arrival in Mexico, business travelers must complete and submit a form (Form FM-N) authorizing the conduct of business, but not employment, for a 30-day period. Travelers entering Mexico for purposes other than tourism or business or for stays of longer than 180 days require a visa and must carry a valid U.S. passport. U.S. citizens planning to work or live in Mexico should apply for the appropriate Mexican visa at the Mexican Embassy in Washington, DC or nearest Mexican consulate in the United States. Minors: Mexican law requires that any non-Mexican under the age of 18 departing Mexico must carry notarized written permission from any parent or guardian not traveling with the child. This permission must include the name of the parent, the name of the child, the name of anyone traveling with the child, and the notarized signature(s) of the absent parent(s). The State Department recommends that the permission should include travel dates, destinations, airlines and a brief summary of the circumstances surrounding the travel. The child must be carrying the original letter - not a facsimile or scanned copy - as well as proof of the parent/child relationship (usually a birth certificate or court document) - and an original custody decree, if applicable. Travelers should contact the Mexican Embassy or closest Mexican Consulate for current information. All travelers should refer to our Foreign Entry Requirements brochure for more information on Mexico and other countries. Visit the Embassy of Mexico website at http://portal.sre.gob.mx/usa/ or contact the Embassy of Mexico at 1911 Pennsylvania Avenue N.W., Washington, D.C. 20006, telephone (202) 736-1000, or any Mexican consulate in the United States for the most current visa information. DUAL NATIONALITY: Mexican law recognizes dual nationality for Mexicans by birth, meaning those born in Mexico or born abroad to Mexican parents. U.S. citizens who are also Mexican nationals are considered to be Mexican by local authorities. Dual-nationality status could hamper U.S. Government efforts to provide consular protection. Dual nationals are not subject to compulsory military service in Mexico. Travelers possessing both U.S. and Mexican nationalities must carry with them proof of their citizenship of both countries. Under Mexican law, dual nationals entering or departing Mexico must identify themselves as Mexican. For additional information, Read our information on dual nationality and prevention of international child abduction. SAFETY AND SECURITY: Travelers should avoid demonstrations and other activities that might be deemed political by the Mexican authorities. The Mexican Constitution prohibits political activities by foreigners, and such actions may result in detention and/or deportation. The Department of State recommends caution in traveling to the southern state of Chiapas. Armed rebels and armed civilian groups are present in some areas of the state, and there is often no effective law enforcement or police protection. Violent criminal gang activity along the State’s southern border - mostly aimed at illegal migrants - continues to be a concern. U.S. citizens traveling to Chiapas are encouraged to contact the U.S. Embassy for further security information prior to traveling to the region. Sporadic outbursts of politically motivated violence occur from time to time in certain parts of the country, particularly in the southern states of Chiapas, Guerrero and Oaxaca. GENERAL SAFETY: Standards of security, safety and supervision may not reach those expected in the United States. This has contributed to deaths of U.S. citizens in automobile accidents, after falls from balconies, after falls into open ditches, by drowning in the ocean as well as in hotel pools, and in water-sports mishaps, among others. The Department of State urges American citizens to take responsibility for their own personal security while traveling overseas. For the latest security information, Americans traveling abroad should regularly monitor the Department’s Internet web site at where the current Worldwide Caution Public Announcement, Travel Warnings and Public Announcements can be found. Up-to-date information on safety and security can also be obtained by calling 1-888-407-4747 toll free in the United States, or, for callers outside the United States and Canada, a regular toll line at 1-202-501-4444. These numbers are available from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. Eastern Time, Monday through Friday (except U.S. federal holidays). CRIME: Crime in Mexico continues at high levels, and it is often violent, especially in Mexico City, Tijuana, Ciudad Juarez, Nuevo Laredo, and the state of Sinaloa. Other metropolitan areas have lower, but still serious, levels of crime. Low apprehension and conviction rates of criminals contribute to the high crime rate. Travelers should always leave valuables and irreplaceable items in a safe place, or not bring them. All visitors are encouraged to make use of hotel safes when available, avoid wearing obviously expensive jewelry or designer clothing, and carry only the cash or credit cards that will be needed on each outing. There are a significant number of pick-pocketing incidents, purse snatchings and hotel-room thefts. Public transportation is a particularly popular place for pickpockets. U.S. citizen victims of crime in Mexico are encouraged to report the incident to the nearest police headquarters and to the nearest U.S. consular office. Visitors should be aware of their surroundings at all times, even when in areas generally considered safe. Women traveling alone are especially vulnerable and should exercise caution, particularly at night. Victims, who are almost always unaccompanied, have been raped, robbed of personal property, or abducted and then held while their credit cards were used at various businesses and Automatic Teller Machines (ATMs). Armed street crime is a serious problem in all of the major cities. Some bars and nightclubs, especially in resort cities such as Cancun, Cabo San Lucas, Mazatlan, and Acapulco, can be havens for drug dealers and petty criminals. Some establishments may contaminate or drug drinks to gain control over the patron. U.S. citizens should be very cautious in general when using ATMs in Mexico. If an ATM must be used, it should be accessed only during the business day at large protected facilities (preferably inside commercial establishments, rather than at glass-enclosed, highly visible ATMs on streets). U.S. and Mexican citizens are sometimes accosted on the street and forced to withdraw money from their accounts using their ATM cards. A number of Americans have been arrested for passing on counterfeit currency they had earlier received in change. If you receive what you believe to be a counterfeit bank note, bring it to the attention of Mexican law enforcement. Kidnapping, including the kidnapping of non-Mexicans, continues at alarming rates. So-called “express” kidnappings, an attempt to get quick cash in exchange for the release of an individual, have occurred in almost all the large cities in Mexico and appear to target not only the wealthy, but also middle class persons. U.S. businesses with offices in Mexico or concerned U.S. citizens may contact the U.S. Embassy or any U.S. consulate to discuss precautions they should take. Criminal assaults occur on highways throughout Mexico; travelers should exercise extreme caution at all times, avoid traveling at night, and may wish to use toll (“cuota”) roads rather than the less secure “free” (“libre”) roads whenever possible. In addition, U.S. citizens should not hitchhike with, or accept rides from or offer rides to, strangers anywhere in Mexico. Tourists should not hike alone in backcountry areas, nor walk alone on lightly frequented beaches, ruins or trails. All bus travel should be during daylight hours and on first-class conveyances. Although there have been several reports of bus hijackings and robberies on toll roads, buses on toll roads have a markedly lower rate of incidents than buses (second and third class) that travel the less secure “free” highways. The Embassy advises caution when traveling by bus from Acapulco toward Ixtapa or Huatulco. Although the police have made some progress in bringing this problem under control, armed robberies of entire busloads of passengers still occur. In some instances, Americans have become victims of harassment, mistreatment and extortion by Mexican law enforcement and other officials. Mexican authorities have cooperated in investigating such cases, but one must have the officer’s name, badge number, and patrol car number to pursue a complaint effectively. Please note this information if you ever have a problem with police or other officials. In addition, tourists should be wary of persons representing themselves as police officers or other officials. When in doubt, ask for identification. Be aware that offering a bribe to a public official to avoid a ticket or other penalty is a crime in Mexico. It is increasingly common for extortionists to call prospective victims on the telephone, often posing as police officers, and demand payments in return for the release of an arrested family member, or to forestall a kidnapping. Prison inmates using smuggled cellular phones often place these calls. Persons receiving such calls should be extremely skeptical since most such demands or threats are baseless, and should contact the U.S. Embassy or closest U.S. consulate, or the Department of State for assistance. U.S. citizens may refer to the Department of State’s pamphlet, A Safe Trip Abroad , for ways to promote a trouble-free journey. The pamphlet is available by mail from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C. 20402, via the Internet at http://www.gpoaccess.gov/, or via the Department’s Internet web site. INFORMATION FOR VICTIMS OF CRIME: The loss or theft abroad of a U.S. passport should be reported immediately to the local police and the nearest U.S. Embassy or Consulate. If you are a victim of a crime while overseas, you should report it immediately to the nearest U.S. consular office and make a report to Mexican authorities. Do not rely on hotel/restaurant/tour company management to make the report for you. The Embassy/Consulate staff can, for example, assist you to find appropriate medical care, contact family members or friends and explain how funds could be transferred. Although the investigation and prosecution of the crime is solely the responsibility of local authorities, consular officers can help you to understand the local criminal justice process and to find an attorney if needed. Under the best of circumstances, prosecution is very difficult (a fact some assailants appear to knowingly exploit), but no criminal investigation is possible without a formal complaint to Mexican authorities. Victims of crime may also report the crime to the Mexican Embassy or nearest consulate after arriving in the United States. However, delays in reporting the crime may hinder or even prevent prosecution in some cases. See our information on Victims of Crime. CRIME IN MEXICO CITY: In Mexico City, the most frequently reported crimes involving tourists are taxi robbery (see below), armed robbery, pick-pocketing and purse-snatching. In several cases, tourists have reported that men in uniforms perpetrated the crime, stopping vehicles and seeking money, or assaulting and robbing tourists walking late at night. As in any large city, individuals should exercise caution and be aware of their surroundings, especially when walking anywhere in the city. Business travelers should be aware that thefts occur even in what appear to be secure locations. Thefts of such items as briefcases and laptops occur frequently at the Benito Juarez International Airport and at business-class hotels. Arriving travelers who need to obtain pesos at the airport should use the exchange counters or ATMs in the arrival/departure gate area, where access is restricted, rather than changing money after passing through Customs, where they can be observed by criminals. Metro (subway) robberies are frequent in Mexico City. If riding the Metro or the city bus system, U.S. citizens should take extreme care with valuables and belongings. Avoid using Metro during busy commuting hours in the morning or afternoon. Tourists and residents alike should avoid driving alone at night anywhere in Mexico City. Robbery and assaults on passengers in taxis are frequent and violent in Mexico City, with passengers subjected to beatings, shootings and sexual assault. U.S. citizens visiting Mexico City should avoid taking any taxi not summoned by telephone or contacted in advance. When in need of a taxi, please telephone a radio taxi or “sitio” (regulated taxi stand - pronounced “C-T-O”), and ask the dispatcher for the driver’s name and the cab’s license plate number. Ask the hotel concierge or other responsible individual calling on your behalf to write down the license plate number of the cab that you entered. Sitio taxis may be distinguished from other taxis in Mexico City by the letter “S” that precedes the identification numbers on the side of the car and on the license plate. Passengers arriving at Mexico City’s Benito Juarez International Airport should take only airport taxis (which are white with a yellow stripe and a black airplane symbol) after pre-paying the fare at one of the special booths inside the airport. CRIME IN CANCUN AND OTHER RESORT AREAS: There have been a significant number of rapes reported in Cancun. Many of these have occurred at night or in the early morning. Attacks have also occurred on deserted beaches and in hotel rooms. Acquaintance rape is a serious problem. In other cases, hotel workers, taxi drivers, and security personnel have been implicated. Please refer to our information for Victims of Crime . CRIME IN BORDER CITIES: Visitors to the U.S. - Mexico border region, including cities such as Tijuana, Ciudad Juarez, Nuevo Laredo, Nogales, Reynosa and Matamoros, should remain alert and be aware of their surroundings at all times. Some border posts have seen an increase in violence over the past year and some of it has been directed against U.S. citizens. Local police forces have been ineffective in maintaining security in some regions along the border. Drug-related violence also has increased dramatically in recent months, and shows no sign of abating. While U.S. citizens not involved in criminal activities are generally not targeted, innocent bystanders are at risk from the increase in violence in the streets of border cities. In Ciudad Juarez, Nuevo Laredo and Tijuana, shootings have taken place at busy intersections and at popular restaurants during daylight hours. The wave of violence has been aimed primarily at members of drug trafficking organizations, criminal justice officials and journalists. However, foreign visitors and residents, including Americans, have been among the victims of homicides and kidnappings in the border region. In recent months, the worst violence has been centered in the city of Nuevo Laredo in the Mexican state of Tamaulipas, where numerous citizens were kidnapped and/or murdered. U.S. citizens are urged to be especially aware of safety and security concerns when visiting the border region and exercise common-sense precautions such as visiting only legitimate business and tourist areas of border towns during daylight hours. Mexican authorities have failed to prosecute numerous crimes committed against American citizens, including murder and kidnapping. Local police forces suffer from a lack of funds and training, and the judicial system is weak, overworked, and inefficient. Criminals, armed with an impressive array of weapons, know there is little chance they will be caught and punished. In some cases, assailants have been wearing full or partial police uniforms and have used vehicles that resemble police vehicles, indicating some elements of the police might be involved. Visitors are very vulnerable when visiting the local “red light districts,” particularly if they are departing alone in the early hours of the morning. In Ciudad Juarez and Tijuana, there has also been a rise in automobile accidents in which municipal police extort money from U.S. citizen victims. MEDICAL FACILITIES AND HEALTH INFORMATION: Adequate medical care can be found in all major cities. Excellent health facilities are available in Mexico City, but training and availability of emergency responders may be below U.S. standards. Care in more remote areas is limited. Standards of medical training, patient care and business practices vary greatly among medical facilities in beach resorts throughout Mexico. In recent years, some U.S. citizens have complained that certain health-care facilities in beach resorts have taken advantage of them by overcharging or providing unnecessary medical care. In addition to other publicly available information, Americans may consult the U.S. Embassy’s website or the U.S. Embassy, a consulate or consular agency prior to seeking medical attention. The Embassy, consulates and consular agencies maintain lists of reputable doctors and medical facilities that are available to assist U.S. citizens in need of medical care. In many areas in Mexico, tap water is unsafe and should be avoided. Bottled water and beverages are safe; although visitors should be aware that many restaurants and hotels serve tap water unless bottled water is specifically requested. Ice may also come from tap water and should be considered unsafe. Visitors should exercise caution when buying food or beverages from street vendors. In high altitude areas such as Mexico City (elevation 7,600 feet or about 1/2 mile higher than Denver, Colorado), most people need a short adjustment period. Reaction signs to high altitude include a lack of energy, shortness of breath, occasional dizziness, headache, and insomnia. Those with heart problems should consult their doctor before traveling. Air pollution in Mexico City and Guadalajara is severe, especially from December to May, and combined with high altitude could affect travelers with underlying respiratory problems. Information on vaccinations and other health precautions, such as safe food and water precautions and insect bite protection, may be obtained from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention’s hotline for international travelers at 1-877-FYI-TRIP (1-877-394-8747) or via the CDC’s Internet site at http://www.cdc.gov/travel. For information about outbreaks of infectious diseases abroad consult the World Health Organization’s (WHO) website at http://www.who.int/en. Further health information for travelers is available at http://www.who.int/ith. MEDICAL INSURANCE: The Department of State strongly urges Americans to consult with their medical insurance company prior to traveling abroad to confirm whether their policy applies overseas and whether it will cover emergency expenses such as a medical evacuation. To ensure proper reimbursement of medical expenses by insurance carriers, the U.S. Embassy recommends that patients ensure they have sufficient documentation of their care and treatment before leaving the health care facility. The Social Security Medicare Program does not provide coverage for hospital or medical costs outside the United States. Please see our information on medical insurance abroad. TRAFFIC SAFETY AND ROAD CONDITIONS: While in a foreign country, U.S. citizens may encounter road conditions that differ significantly from those in the United States. The information below concerning Mexico is provided for general reference only, and may not be totally accurate in a particular location or circumstance. Public transportation vehicles, specifically taxis and city buses, often do not comply with traffic regulations, including observing speed limits and stopping at red lights. Driving and Vehicle Regulations: U.S. driver’s licenses are valid in Mexico. The Government of Mexico strictly regulates the entry of vehicles into Mexico. Mexican law requires that only owners drive their vehicles, or that the owner be inside the vehicle. If not, the vehicle may be seized by Mexican customs and will not be returned under any circumstances. For detailed information on how to bring a car into Mexico, please refer to the publication Tips for Travelers to Mexico. Mexican insurance is required for all vehicles, including rental vehicles. Mexican auto insurance is sold in most cities and towns on both sides of the border. U.S. automobile liability insurance is not valid in Mexico, nor is most collision and comprehensive coverage issued by U.S. companies. Motor vehicle insurance is considered invalid in Mexico if the driver is found to be under the influence of alcohol or drugs. Road Emergencies and Automobile Accidents: If you have an emergency while driving, the equivalent of “911″ in Mexico is “060″, but this number is not always answered. If you are driving on a toll highway (or “cuota”) or any other major highway, you may contact the “Green Angels,” a fleet of trucks with bilingual crews. The “Green Angels” may be reached directly by (01)(55) 5250-8221. If you are unable to call them, pull off the road and lift the hood of your car, chances are they will find you. If you are involved in an automobile accident, you will be taken into police custody until it can be determined who is liable and whether you have the ability to pay any penalty. If you do not have Mexican liability insurance, you may be prevented from departing the country even if you require life-saving medical care, and you are almost certain to spend some time in jail until all parties are satisfied that responsibility has been assigned and adequate financial satisfaction received. Drivers may face criminal charges if injuries or damages are serious. ROAD SAFETY: Avoid driving on Mexican highways at night. Many U.S. citizens have died in recent years as a result of driving at excessive speeds, at night, on roads that are in poor condition or are poorly marked. Vehicular traffic in Mexico City is restricted in order to reduce air pollution. The restriction is based on the last digit of the vehicle license plate. This applies equally to permanent, temporary, and foreign (U.S.) plates. For additional information refer to http://www.hoynocircula.com.mx/ (Spanish only). Please refer to our Road Safety page for more information. For additional information concerning Mexican drivers permits, vehicle inspection, road tax, mandatory insurance, etc., please contact the Mexican Secretariat of Tourism (SECTUR) at telephone 1-800-44-MEXICO (639-426), or its web site at http://mexico-travel.com. Travelers are advised to consult with the Mexican Embassy or the nearest Mexican consulate in the United States for additional, detailed information prior to entering Mexico. For travel in the Baja California peninsula, travelers can also consult http://www.traveltobaja.net/. AVIATION SAFETY OVERSIGHT: The U.S. Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) has assessed the Government of Mexico as being in compliance with ICAO international aviation safety standards for oversight of Mexico’s air carrier operations. For more information, travelers may visit the FAA’s Internet web site at http://www.faa.gov/safety/programs_initiatives/oversight/iasa. SPECIAL CIRCUMSTANCES: Weather conditions may vary as they do in various parts of the United States. From June to November, the country may experience strong winds and rains as a result of hurricanes in the Gulf or along the Pacific Coast. Some areas may experience earth tremors. It is prudent to leave a detailed itinerary, including local contact information and expected time-date of return with a friend or family member. Water Sports: Visitors to Mexico, including to local resort areas, should carefully assess the potential risk of recreational activities. Recreational facilities such as pools may not meet U.S. safety or sanitation standards. Do not swim in pools or at beaches without lifeguards. Several U.S. citizens have died in hotel pools in recent years. Parents should watch minor children closely when they are in or around water. U.S. citizens have drowned or disappeared at both remote and popular beaches along the southwest coast of Mexico. Warning flags on beaches should be taken seriously. If black flags are up, do not enter the water. In Cancun, there is often a very strong undertow along the beach from the Hyatt Regency all the way south to the Sol y Mar. Several drownings and near-drownings have been reported on the east coast of Cozumel, particularly in the Playa San Martin-Chen Rio area. In Acapulco, avoid swimming outside the bay area. Several American citizens have died while swimming in rough surf at the Revolcadero Beach near Acapulco. Despite U.S. trained lifeguards, there have been several drownings of persons in the area of Zipolite beach in Puerto Angel Oaxaca because of sudden waves and strong currents. Beaches on the Pacific side of the Baja California Peninsula at Cabo San Lucas are dangerous due to rip tides and rogue waves; hazardous beaches in this area are clearly marked in English and Spanish. Do not swim alone in isolated beach areas. Beaches may not be well marked, and strong currents could lead to dangerous conditions for even the most experienced swimmers. Do not dive into unknown bodies of water, because hidden rocks or shallow depths can cause serious injury or death. Sports and aquatic equipment that you rent may not meet U.S. safety standards nor be covered by any accident insurance. Scuba diving equipment may be substandard or defective due to frequent use. Inexperienced scuba divers in particular should beware of dive shops that promise to “certify” you after a few hours’ instruction. Parasailing has killed American tourists who were dragged through palm trees or were slammed into hotel walls. Jet-ski accidents have killed American tourists, especially in group-outings when inexperienced guides allowed their clients to follow each other too closely. Cancun and Other Resort Areas: Over 3 million Americans travel to Cancun and other Mexican beach resorts each year, including as many as 120,000 during “spring break” season, which normally begins in mid-February and runs about two months. Excessive alcohol consumption, especially by Americans under the legal U.S. drinking age, is a significant problem. The legal drinking age in Mexico is 18, but it is not uniformly enforced. Alcohol is implicated in the majority of arrests, violent crimes, accidents and deaths suffered by American tourists. In recent years, moped rentals have become very widespread in Cancun and Cozumel, and the number of serious moped accidents has risen accordingly. Most operators carry no insurance and do not conduct safety checks. The Embassy recommends avoiding operators who do not provide a helmet with the rental. Some operators have been known to demand fees many times in excess of damages caused to the vehicles, even if renters have purchased insurance in advance. Vacationers at other beach resorts have encountered similar problems after accidents involving rented jet-skis. There have been cases of mobs gathering to prevent tourists from departing the scene and to help intimidate them into paying exorbitant damage claims. MOTOR ACCIDENTS: Motor vehicle accidents are the leading cause of death of U.S. citizens in Mexico. Motorists should exercise special caution on the heavily traveled expressway south of Cancun, particularly between Playa del Carmen and Tulum, where the road narrows from 4 divided lanes to two-way traffic on a narrower and poorly maintained road. For more information, please refer to our Road Safety page.. Mountain Climbing and Hiking: Travelers who wish to climb Pico de Orizaba in Veracruz should be aware that summer droughts in recent years have removed much of the snow coating and turned the Jamapa Glacier into a high-speed ice chute, increasing the risk of death or serious injury. At least 17 climbers have died on the mountain and 39 have been injured in recent years, including U.S. citizens. Rescue teams operate without the benefit of sophisticated equipment, and any medical treatment provided in local hospitals or clinics must be paid in cash. While regulation of the ascent is minimal and guides are not required, the U.S. Embassy recommends hiring an experienced guide. The Colima Volcano, located approximately 20 miles north-northeast of Colima city, is active and erupted several times in 2005. Travelers should not enter the prohibited area within a 4.5-mile radius of the volcano. When departing on an outing to backcountry areas to hike or climb, it is prudent to leave a detailed itinerary, including route information and expected time-date of return with your hotel clerk or a friend or family member. Similarly, mariners preparing to depart from a Mexican harbor should visit the harbormaster and leave a detailed trip plan, including intended destination and crew and passenger information. FIREARMS PENALTIES: The Department of State warns U.S. citizens against taking any type of firearm or ammunition into Mexico without prior written authorization from the Mexican authorities. Entering Mexico with a firearm, some kinds of knives or even a single round of ammunition is illegal, even if the weapon or ammunition is taken into Mexico unintentionally. The Mexican government strictly enforces its laws restricting the entry of firearms and ammunition along all land borders and at air and seaports. Violations have resulted in arrests, convictions, and long prison sentences for U.S. citizens. Vessels entering Mexican waters with firearms or ammunition on board must have a permit previously issued by the Mexican Embassy or a Mexican consulate. Mariners do not avoid prosecution by declaring their weapons at the port of entry. Before traveling, mariners who have obtained a Mexican firearm permit should contact Mexican port officials to receive guidance on the specific procedures used to report and secure weapons and ammunition. CUSTOMS REGULATIONS: Please see our information on customs regulations. U.S. citizens bringing gifts to friends and relatives in Mexico should be prepared to demonstrate to Mexican customs officials the origin and the value of the gifts. U.S. citizens entering Mexico by the land border can bring in gifts with a value of up to $50.00 duty-free, except for alcohol and tobacco products. Those entering Mexico by air or sea can bring in gifts with a value of up to $300.00 duty-free. Tourists are allowed to bring in their personal effects duty-free. According to customs regulations, in addition to clothing, personal effects may include one camera, one video cassette player, one personal computer, one CD player, 5 DVDs, 20 music CDs or audiocassettes, 12 rolls of unused film, and one cellular phone. Any tourist carrying such items, even if duty-free, should enter the “Merchandise to Declare” lane at the first customs checkpoint. The tourist should be prepared to pay any assessed duty. Failure to declare personal effects routinely results in the seizure of the goods as contraband, plus the seizure of the vehicle in which the goods are traveling for attempted smuggling. The recovery of the seized vehicle involves the payment of substantial fines and attorney’s fees. Mexican customs authorities enforce strict regulations concerning temporary importation into or export from Mexico of items such as trucks, and autos, trailers, antiquities, medications, medical equipment, business equipment, etc. It is advisable to contact the Mexican Embassy or one of the Mexican consulates in the United States for specific information regarding customs requirements. U.S. citizens traveling to Mexico with goods intended for donation within Mexico, or traveling through Mexico with goods intended for donation in another country, should be aware of Mexican Customs regulations prohibiting importation of used clothing, textiles, and other used goods into Mexico. These regulations apply even to charitable donations. Individuals or groups wishing to make such donations should check with Mexican Customs for the list of prohibited items, and should hire an experienced customs broker in the U.S. to ensure compliance with Mexican law. The charitable individual or group, not the customs broker, will be held responsible for large fines or confiscation of goods if the documentation is incorrect. The website for Mexican Customs, or “Aduanas,” is in Spanish only at http://www.aduanas.sat.gob.mx/webadunet/body.htm. Mexican authorities require that all international transit through Mexico of persons and merchandise destined for Central or South America be handled only at the Los Indios Bridge located south of Harlingen, Texas on Route 509. The American Consulate in Matamoros is the closest consulate to Los Indios Bridge and may be contacted for up-to-date information by calling 011-52-868-812-4402, ext. 273 or 280, or by checking their website, http://matamoros.usconsulate.gov/matamoros-esp/, which lists in English the most common items prohibited from entry into Mexico. Additional customs information can be found on the U.S. Customs and Border Protection website at http://www.cbp.gov. BEHAVIOR MODIFICATION FACILITIES: A number of facilities have opened in Mexico that offer behavior modification therapy for teenagers and others suffering from drug addiction and other behavioral or psychological problems. Standards applied by the Government of Mexico and local governments, where they exist, may not meet standards for similar facilities in the United States. Parents planning to enroll their children in these facilities should investigate the facility first. Since 2004, Mexican officials closed six adolescent behavior modification facilities in Baja California and another in Jalisco due to health code and other violations. This was done on very short notice and caused serious inconvenience for the American students and their families. Another behavior modification facility in Sonora suddenly declared bankruptcy and closed its doors in March 2005, with a similarly disruptive impact on students. For further information, please refer to the State Department’s Fact Sheet on Behavior Modification Facilities. CRIMINAL PENALTIES AND TREATMENT OF PRISONERS: While in a foreign country, a U.S. citizen is subject to that country’s laws and regulations, which sometimes differ significantly from those in the United States and may not afford the protections available to the individual under U.S. law. The trial process in Mexico is different than in the United States, and procedures may vary from state to state. Penalties for breaking the law can be more severe than in the United States for similar offenses. Persons violating Mexican laws, even unknowingly, may be expelled, arrested or imprisoned. Penalties for possession, use or trafficking in illegal drugs in Mexico are severe, and convicted offenders can expect long jail sentences and heavy fines. Engaging in sexual conduct with children or using or disseminating child pornography in a foreign country is a crime, prosecutable in the United States. For more information, please see our information on Criminal Penalties. Soliciting the services of a minor for sexual purposes is illegal in Mexico, and is punishable by imprisonment. The Mexican government has announced an aggressive program to discourage sexual tourism. Police authorities in the state of Baja California recently began enforcement of anti-pedophile legislation. The Mexican government is required by international law to notify the U.S. Embassy or the nearest U.S. consulate promptly when an American citizen is arrested, if the arrestee so requests. In practice, however, this notification can be delayed by months or may never occur at all, limiting the assistance the U.S. Government can provide. Americans should promptly identify themselves as such to the arresting officers, and should request that the Embassy or nearest consulate be notified immediately. Prison conditions in Mexico can be extremely poor. In many facilities food is insufficient in both quantity and quality, and prisoners must pay for adequate nutrition from their own funds. Most Mexican prisons provide poor medical care, and even prisoners with urgent medical conditions receive only a minimum of attention. U.S. citizens who are incarcerated in Mexico are sometimes forced to pay hundreds and even thousands of dollars in “protection money” to fellow prisoners. Mexican police regularly obtain information through torture and prosecutors use this evidence in courts. The Constitution and the law prohibit torture, and Mexico is party to several international ant-torture conventions, but courts continue to admit as evidence confessions extracted under torture. Authorities rarely punish officials for torture, which continues to occur in large part because confessions are the primary evidence in many criminal convictions. U.S. citizens have been brutalized, beaten, and even raped while in police custody. Since the beginning of 2002, 20 American citizens have died in Mexican prisons, including five apparent homicides. DRUG PENALTIES AND PRESCRIPTION MEDICATIONS: Penalties for drug offenses are strict, and convicted offenders can expect large fines and jail sentences up to 25 years. The purchase of controlled medication requires a prescription from a licensed Mexican physician; some Mexican doctors have been arrested for writing prescriptions without due cause. In those instances, American citizens who bought the medications have been held in jail for months waiting for the Mexican judicial system to decide their fate. The Mexican list of controlled medication differs from that of the United States, and Mexican public health laws concerning controlled medication are unclear and often enforced selectively. To determine whether a particular medication is controlled in Mexico, and requires a prescription from a Mexican doctor for purchase, please consult the website of the Mexican Federal Commission for Protection Against Health Risks at http://www.cofepris.gob.mx/pyp/estpsic/es.htm. The U.S. Embassy recommends that U.S. citizens not travel to Mexico for the sole purpose of buying prescription drugs. U.S. citizens have been arrested and their medicines confiscated by the Mexican authorities, even though their prescriptions were written by a licensed American physician and filled by a licensed Mexican pharmacist. There have been cases of Americans buying prescription drugs in border cities only to be arrested soon after or have money extorted by criminals impersonating police officers. Those arrested are often held for the full 48 hours allowed by Mexican law without charges being filed, then released. During this interval, the detainees are often asked for bribes or are solicited by attorneys who demand large fees to secure their release, which will normally occur without any intercession, as there are insufficient grounds to bring criminal charges against the individuals. In addition, U.S. law enforcement officials believe that as much as 25 percent of medications available in Mexico are counterfeit and substandard. Such counterfeit medications may be difficult to distinguish from the real medication and could pose serious health risks to consumers. The importation of prescription drugs into the United States can be illegal in certain circumstances. U.S. law generally permits persons to enter the United States with only an immediate (about one-month’s) supply of a prescription medication. Further information on bringing prescription drugs into the United States is available from U.S. Customs and Border Protection at “Know Before You Go.” The U.S. Embassy cautions that possession of any amount of prescription medicine brought from the United States, including medications to treat HIV and psychotropic drugs such as Valium, can result in arrest if Mexican authorities suspect abuse or if the quantity of the prescription medicine exceeds the amount required for several days’ use. Individuals should consider carrying a copy of the prescription and a Mexican doctor’s letter explaining that the quantity of medication is appropriate for their personal medical use. To import medicines into Mexico for personal use, a foreigner must obtain a permit from the Mexican Health Department prior to importing the medicine into Mexico. Additional information is available at www.cofepris.gob.mx. For a fee, a customs broker can process the permit before the Mexican authorities on behalf of an individual. If using the services of a customs broker, it is advisable to agree upon the fees before telling the broker to proceed. Current information on local customs brokers (agencias aduanales) is available at the Mexico City yellow pages at www.seccionamarilla.com.mx. MARRIAGE REQUIREMENTS IN MEXICO: In general, to marry a Mexican national in Mexico, a U.S. citizen must be physically present in Mexico, and present documents required by the jurisdiction where the marriage will take place. U.S. citizens who marry U.S. citizens or other non-Mexicans are not subject to a residence requirement, but are required to present their tourist cards. For additional information on marriages in Mexico, contact the U.S. Embassy or the nearest U.S. consulate. DIVORCE REQUIREMENTS IN MEXICO: Divorce requirements may vary according to jurisdiction. The U.S. Embassy recommends U.S. citizens consult a local attorney and /or the Mexican Embassy or nearest Consulate for information on divorces in Mexico. REAL ESTATE AND TIME-SHARES: U.S. citizens should be aware of the risks inherent in purchasing real estate in Mexico, and should exercise extreme caution before entering into any form of commitment to invest in property there. Investors should hire competent Mexican legal counsel when contemplating any real estate investment. Mexican laws and practices regarding real estate differ substantially from those in the United States. Foreigners who purchase property in Mexico may find that property disputes with Mexican citizens may not be treated evenhandedly by Mexican criminal justice authorities and in the courts. The Mexican Constitution prohibits direct ownership by foreigners of real estate within 100 kilometers (about 62 miles) of any border, and within 50 kilometers (about 31 miles) of any coastline. In order to permit foreign investment in these areas, the Mexican government has created a trust mechanism, in which a bank has title to the property, but a trust beneficiary enjoys the benefits of ownership. However, U.S. citizens are vulnerable to title challenges that may result in years of litigation and possible eviction. Although title insurance is available in the Baja Peninsula and in other parts of Mexico, it is virtually unknown and remains untested in most of the country. In addition, Mexican law recognizes squatters’ rights, and homeowners can spend thousands of dollars in legal fees and years of frustration in trying to remove squatters who occupy their property. American property owners should consult legal counsel or local authorities before hiring employees to serve in their homes or on their vessels moored in Mexico. Several American property owners have faced lengthy lawsuits for failure to comply with Mexican labor laws regarding severance pay and social security benefits. American citizens should exercise caution when considering time-share investments and be aware of the aggressive tactics used by some time-share sales representatives. Buyers should be fully informed and take sufficient time to consider their decisions before signing time-share contracts, ideally after consulting an independent attorney. Mexican law allows time-share purchasers five days to cancel the contract for unconditional and full reimbursement. U.S. citizens should never sign a contract that includes clauses penalizing the buyer who cancels within five days. A formal complaint against any merchant should be filed with PROFECO, Mexico’s federal consumer protection agency. PROFECO has the power to mediate disputes, investigate consumer complaints, order hearings, levy fines and sanctions for not appearing at hearings, and do price-check inspections of merchants. All complaints by U.S. citizens are handled by PROFECO’s English-speaking office in Mexico City at 011-52-55-6090-6633 and 5090-6700 ext. 1317 or via email at extranjeros@profeco.gob.mx. For more information, please see the PROFECO “Attention to Foreigners” web page at Profeco (Procuraduría Federal del Consumidor). ALIEN SMUGGLING: Mexican authorities may prosecute anyone arrested for transporting aliens into or out of Mexico for alien smuggling in addition to any charges they may face in the other country involved, including the United States. CHILDREN’S ISSUES: For information on international adoption of children and international parental child abduction, see the Office of Children’s Issues website. Mexico is the destination country of the greatest number of children abducted from the United States by a parent. A party to the Hague Convention on the Civil Aspects of International Child Abduction since 1991, Mexico is not in full compliance with the Convention. REGISTRATION/EMBASSY, CONSULATE AND CONSULAR AGENCY LOCATIONS: Americans living or traveling in Mexico for more than one day are encouraged to register with the nearest U.S. Embassy or Consulate through the State Department’s travel registration website, and to obtain updated information on travel and security within Mexico. Americans without Internet access may register directly with the nearest U.S. Embassy or Consulate. By registering, you’ll make it easier for the Embassy or Consulate to contact you in case of emergency. The U.S. Embassy is located in Mexico City at Paseo de la Reforma 305, Colonia Cuauhtemoc, telephone from the United States: 011-52-55-5080-2000; telephone within Mexico City: 5080-2000; telephone long distance within Mexico 01-55-5080-2000. You may also contact the Embassy by e-mail at: ccs@usembassy.net.mx. The Embassy’s Internet address is http://www.usembassy-mexico.gov/ . In addition to the Embassy, there are several United States Consulates and Consular Agencies located throughout Mexico: Consulates: Ciudad Juarez: Avenida Lopez Mateos 924-N, telephone (52)(656) 611-3000. Guadalajara: Progreso 175, telephone (52)(333) 268-2100. Monterrey: Avenida Constitucion 411 Poniente, telephone (52)(818) 345-2120. Tijuana: Tapachula 96, telephone (52)(664) 622-7400. Hermosillo: Avenida Monterrey 141, telephone (52)(662) 289-3500. Matamoros: Avenida Primera 2002, telephone (52)(868) 812-4402. Merida: Paseo Montejo 453, telephone (52)(999) 925-5011. Nogales: Calle San Jose, Nogales, Sonora, telephone (52)(631) 313-4820. Nuevo Laredo: Calle Allende 3330, Col. Jardin, telephone (52)(867) 714-0512. Consular Agencies: Acapulco: Hotel Continental Emporio, Costera Miguel Aleman 121 - Local 14, telephone (52)(744) 484-0300 or (52)(744) 469-0556. Cabo San Lucas: Blvd. Marina Local C-4, Plaza Nautica, Col. Centro, telephone (52)(624) 143-3566. Cancún: Plaza Caracol Two, Second Level, No. 320-323, Boulevard Kukulcan, Km. 8.5, Zona Hotelera, telephone (52)(998) 883-0272. Ciudad Acuna , Ocampo # 305, Col. Centro, telephone (52)(877) 772-8661 Cozumel: Plaza Villa Mar en El Centro, Plaza Principal, (Parque Juárez between Melgar and 5th Ave.) 2nd floor, Locales #8 and 9, telephone (52)(987) 872-4574. Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo: Hotel Fontan, Blvd. Ixtapa, telephone (52)(755) 553-2100. Mazatlán: Hotel Playa Mazatlán, Playa Gaviotas #202, Zona Dorada, telephone (52)(669) 916-5889. Oaxaca: Macedonio Alcalá No. 407, Interior 20, telephone (52)(951) 514-3054 (52)(951) 516-2853. Piedras Negras: Prol. General Cepeda No. 1900, Fraccionamiento Privada Blanca, telephone (52) (878) 785-1986 Puerto Vallarta: Zaragoza #160, Col. Centro, Edif. Vallarta Plaza, Piso 2 Int.18, telephone (52)(322) 222-0069. Reynosa: Calle Monterrey #390, Esq. Sinaloa, Colonia Rodríguez, telephone: (52)(899) 923 - 9331 San Luis Potosi: Edificio “Las Terrazas”, Avenida Venustiano Carranza 2076-41, Col. Polanco, telephone: (52)(444) 811-7802/7803. San Miguel de Allende: Dr. Hernandez Macias #72, telephone (52)(415) 152-2357 or (52)(415) 152-0068. * * * This replaces the Consular Information Sheet dated July 26, 2005, to update sections on, Entry Requirements, Safety and Security, Crime (including Information on Victims of Crime, Crime in Mexico City, and Crime in Border Cities), Medical Insurance, Traffic Safety and Road Conditions, Special Circumstances (including Cancun and Other Beach Resort Areas Motor Accidents, Water Sports, Mountain Climbing and Hiking), Marriage and Divorce Requirements in Mexico, Real Estate and Time Shares, Behavior Modification Facilities, and Criminal Penalties. —————————— (UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF STATE, FEBRUARY 3, 2006)

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Saturday, January 14, 2006

Baja California Mexico, The Long Winding Road

Baja Peninsula Mexico - We laughed at the highway sign: ”Camino Sinuoso” — ”Winding Road.” An understatement.

Baja California’s nearly 1,000-mile Transpeninsular Highway snakes incessantly down the Pacific from Tijuana, switches back up and over the sierra, drops to the Sea of Cortez (Gulf of California), and finally twists into Los Cabos. The road, fishing villages, mountain mission towns, beach communities and small ranching enclaves were our reasons for making our sixth annual drive of nearly 1,000 miles last February. 

Once again we reset the car radio to Mexican stations playing guitar- and accordion-driven Norteño dance music as we — my husband, Tom, our dog, Izzie, and I — swung onto the Tijuana-Ensenada toll road. Customs was, as usual, a relaxed exercise in bureaucracy, involving much chatter about the beauty of our destination, Todos Santos, some 950 miles south. Our first goal was to be in the fishing town of San Quintín, 200 miles south, by midafternoon. The road followed the sweep of the coast with sheer cliffs dropping down to transparent blue water. In the distance, volcanic peaks disappeared in the clouds. Offshore shrimpers dotted the horizon.

 At Ensanada, Mexico the road became two lanes. Axle-busting speed bumps slowed us in small towns, but we coasted through the drug checkpoints, the soldiers more interested in searching northbound traffic. In the fertile farm region we watched men and women, their heads shrouded in bandannas, trudging between rows of asparagus, strawberries, nopales (edible cactus) and then grapes. A cowboy galloped by. San Quintín’s harbor sits in the curve of a small bay where fishing boats and the Mexican navy tie up. The Old Mill, a low-rise inn, looks out across the bay and a spit of land to the Pacific. My husband rigged his spinning rod and walked across the Old Mill’s picnic area to the nearby sea wall. As he stood casting from the pier, the crew of the patrol boat laughed when he drew up seaweed. Five young boys gathered to offer advice until Tom handed his rod to one delighted bare-chested boy. The others jumped into the receding tide to gather crabs with their hands. We retired to the veranda of Motel Carlos next to the Old Mill for a sunset beer, then, taking the advice of Nancy Harer, the Old Mill’s proprietor, drove three miles to Los Jardines, a restaurant set in palms and greenery. At the bar, a pair of men sat head to head playing guitars and singing rancheras, sad ballads of lost loves and dreams. The Super Bowl was in its final quarter on the television set at the opposite end of the dining room. A table of young local people cheered the singers. In between, we ordered Pismo clams, fresh from the bay, and the day’s catch — mackerel — grilled in a mango sauce. The next morning, when we walked into Mama Espinosa’s restaurant in El Rosario, some 40 miles south, Rollie Espinosa was stoking the potbellied stove. ”Welcome back, welcome,” she boomed, then asked after our daughter, who’d been on our first drive south in 1996 and is now a graduate student in New York. She filled our cups with strong Mexican coffee. A grizzled beekeeper came in laden with jars of wild honey. I coughed and he zipped to my side with a dripping tablespoonful. With assurances from Rollie that the washes to the south were clear, we continued across deep green valleys.

A series of dangerous curves carried us into high desert, a land of giant cardón cactus, Dr. Seussian cirio cactus, fat-trunked elephant trees, VW-van-sized boulders, and massive lava flows. We’d arrived in the village of Cataviña, a small settlement — a few houses, truck stop restaurants and a hotel — that is a photographers’ mecca. Cataviña is a good place to gas up and eat before the three-hour drive to Guerrero Negro. A dusty town, Guerrero Negro is dependent on a salt-extracting business and tourists who come from January to March to see the calving Pacific gray whales in nearby Scammon’s Lagoon. We’d joined a whale-watching trip here in 1999, but this year we continued across the Vizcaíno Desert, now a Unesco Biosphere Reserve of 6.2 million acres. Home to myriad species, including the endangered pronghorn antelope and the gray whales at Bahía San Ignacio, the Vizcaíno Reserve was saved in 2001 from expansion of the saltworks by an international environmental outcry.

 The town of San Ignacio is a mountain oasis. The much photographed 200-year-old Misión San Ignacio dominates one end of the tree-shaded plaza. At the opposite end is the office of Kuyima, an eco-tourism organization, with which we made arrangements to camp and whale-watch at the bay. Around the corner is the restored 100-year-old adobe house, now a bed-and-breakfast, Casa Elvira, where we usually stop for a night. We bounced across the washboarded 36-mile gravel road for two hours to arrive at Bahía San Ignacio for a sunset punctuated by the splashing and blowing of cavorting whales. That night, around family-style tables in Kuyima’s palapa restaurant, we listened to stories of the day’s whale watching. The next day we raced in 45 minutes to the whale-watching zone across the lagoon in a broad-beamed 20-foot panga with an outboard motor. Once there, the panga drivers cut their motors and waited; they may not chase whales. Within minutes, mothers and calves surrounded us, surfacing and rolling over next to our pangas. We’d seen whales in other Baja lagoons, but nothing compared to these, swimming next to our pangas, surfacing on both sides.

 A day later we took the steep-curving 45 miles from San Ignacio down to Santa Rosalia, aptly named the Devil’s Grade. With Las Tres Vírgenes volcanoes on one side and ever enlarging glimpses of the Sea of Cortez around each hairpin curve, we continued to the small town of Mulegé. Mulegé, its houses brightened with bougainvillea, nestles in a verdant river valley at the top of Bahía Concepción. One purpose for stopping here was to rephotograph the old hand-cut stone-walled mission on the hill overlooking the town. Our infatuation with Mulegé was oddly furthered by a robbery and its outcome. We’d checked into the family-run Hotel Hacienda, a two-story colonial-style building set around a swimming pool and flower-filled courtyard. We showered off road dust and went out to stroll around town with Izzie. We returned to a smashed window and a cleaned-out car. The hotel staff flew into action. Detective Norberto Márquez of the local police, dressed in T-shirt and jeans, arrived, all business. He radioed north and south for roadblocks, and less than two hours later knocked on our door holding a pair of our ski gloves and a Ry Cooder cassette. Another hour later, the accused robbers sat on a dirt floor in an open cell and we sorted through a stack of stolen goods to identify ours. We celebrated with our favorite Mulegé meal of barbecued quail at Restaurante Los Equipales. Settled into the comfortable wood-and-leather chairs by candlelight, we planned the next day’s 300-mile drive to La Paz.

Every turn in the cliff-hanging road south revealed another white-sand beach and camping site. South of Baja’s colonial capital, Loreto, the first European settlement in the Californias (1697), the road climbed the eastern escarpment of the sierra and rolled out across an arid plain toward La Paz. A giant monument depicting a pair of doves marked the entrance to the city, first discovered by emissaries of Hernán Cortez in 1535. Sunsets seem to bring half the population to walk the malecón along the bay or sit at outdoor restaurants along Paseo Obregón. With a population of around 200,000, La Paz is a quietly cosmopolitan small city with a rich history. In the 16th century, fortune seekers came for the pearls. They were followed by missionaries, then pirates who preyed on Spanish trading galleons. The city became the capital of the state of Baja California Sur in 1829, emerging in this century as a free port and fishing destination. At Hotel Lorimar, a charming budget hotel two blocks off the malecón with an interior court full of birds and greenery, we asked after Chuco, a large macaw that used to roam the hallways trying to join unsuspecting guests in their showers. He’d been removed to a restaurant named for him. ”Not a minute too soon,” remarked the affable gentleman at the desk. One hot afternoon we walked through tree-lined commercial and residential streets to the three-story Museo de Anthropología on Calles 5 de Mayo and Altamirano. The museum is crammed with artifacts and fossils from pre-colonial times on, including rock paintings and dioramas of life at various periods of Baja history.

 An hour’s drive south is the partly paved cut-off to Cabo Pulmo on the east cape. Not much more than a short string of houses and a few dive shops paralleling a magnificent white beach, it was made a National Marine Sanctuary in 1995, to preserve the northernmost living coral reef in North America. Credit goes to a coalition of Mexicans and expatriates led by Pepe Murietta, a professional diver, scientists from the University of La Paz, and restaurant owners Nancy and Libby Hyzer, mother and daughter transplants from Chicago. During a day of snorkeling at a secluded beach, we learned from Pepe of the struggle to convince local fishermen that a park with restrictions would mean sustainable fishing. ”Sometimes you have to brush away the fish even to see the reef,” Nancy Hyzer said, as she watched over guests in her much enlarged restaurant. Directly across the peninsula from Cabo Pulmo,

Todos Santos straddles the Tropic of Cancer. When we arrived six years ago to body-surf and camp on the 10-mile beach at Los Cerritos south of town, we were immediately captivated by this burgeoning art community with an interesting mix of old Mexican families, farmers and ranchers, and international artists. There are not yet enough expatriates to distract from the town’s essentially Mexican atmosphere. We time our returns to the annual Festival del Arte, scheduled for Feb. 1 to 8 next year. Once again we spent days picnicking and body-surfing at Los Cerritos. Late afternoons, we hiked to other beaches to watch the gray whales roll in the surf, took in the spectacular fishing boat landings at Punta Lobos, explored Pescadero, an organic gardening and farming community, and the nearby botanical cactus gardens. Daily we wandered through the community’s dozen-plus art galleries. Evenings we tried various restaurants, ranging from the pricey Santa Fé to family-run establishments like Miguel’s, where I became hooked on chiles rellenos,and Mariscos Mi Costa, where we found an outstanding seafood soup. At night we watched performances, either in the plaza in front of the Misión del Pilar or in the adjacent Teatro Márquez de León. After a few desultory semipro ballet presentations, we were riveted by the flamboyant flamenco dancers and a 20-guitar men’s chorus from La Paz. The final Saturday night, we danced in the plaza along with ranchers and fishermen, local gentry and resident artists, expatriates and a few fellow wanderers before heading back to the winding road home. What to take on the drive (a camera and lots of water), where to eat and stay The Transpeninsular Highway is paved along its entire length, and any vehicle in moderately good shape can make the drive safely. Some side roads are suitable only for high clearance and four-wheel-drive vehicles. Do not drive at night. While there have been highway robberies, the real danger is the cattle that come onto the pavement for warmth. There are no highway lights. Carry plenty of drinking water, a tow rope and extra fan belts, and be sure your brakes are in good condition. Camping sites are plentiful the length of the peninsula; camping solo is not recommended. 

SAN QUINTÍN. The Old Mill is on the water three miles west of the center of town on a well-marked dirt road. The view of the bay is terrific; the 31 simple rooms, all with private bath, range from doubles to suites for six.. The one- and two-story wood-and-brick buildings encircle an open courtyard that leads to the bay. Rooms range from $30 to $80 a night, at 10 pesos to the dollar. Restaurante Los Jardines, about five miles south of the Old Mill, is a family restaurant with full bar and excellent food, especially seafood. A Pismo clam dinner costs about $6 a person, not including drinks. Ask at the Old Mill or in San Quintín for road directions. No telephone.

 SAN IGNACIO. Casa Elvira, a converted 100-year-old adobe house, has two basic rooms ($25) with shared bath and kitchen facilities and three two-bedroom suites available for $100 a night with private bath and kitchen facilities, or the entire five-bedroom house can be reserved for $300 a night.

MULEGÉ. Hotel Hacienda, Francisco Madero 3, is a family-run hotel with 23 simple doubles ($30) with private bath and air-conditioning. Restaurante Los Equipales on Calle Moctezuma, furnished with leather and wood, serves memorable barbecued quail dinners for $8 a person, without drinks, as well as seafood.

LA PAZ. Hotels, from luxury to bare bones, abound in La Paz. Hotel Lorimar, where we stayed, is an older, low-key and friendly two-story hotel with an interior garden courtyard, just a block off the waterfront. Its 20 plain doubles range from $30 to $45. The Baja Safari Palapas come with ocean views, air-conditioning, private baths and prices ranging from $259 for one-bedroom casitas.  La Terraza, the restaurant at the venerable Hotel La Perla, overlooks the bay, with an Old World style. A bacon-and-egg breakfast costs about $5. Lunches and dinners feature Mexican favorites, fruit smoothies and grilled fresh fish. Prices range upward from $6 without drinks.

CABO PULMO. The Baja Reef Safari, in the center of town, also a two-room thatched-roof B&B ($50 a room), attracts foodies from Los Cabos. Entrées include chicken enchiladas ($6) and fresh shrimp ($16). The Baja Reef Safari also has a  solar-powered colony of a dozen simple beach cottages with private baths. Rates range from $50 for a double to $200 for a ranch-style house with two to four bedrooms.

TODOS SANTOS. An excellent source for hotels and restaurants is the Baja Safari Mexico Club. Hotel California is the premiere stay in Todos Santos. Sumptuos meals, terrific rooms and incredible atmosphere highlight this delightful, historical and memorable venue. It’s truly the only place to be in Baja, Mexico! Cabañas Quiñones, overlooking the town and the ocean, has six rustic thatched cottages with kitchens, with private baths in bathhouses behind each cottage; $20 a night, $200 a month. Hotel Misión del Pilar, a Moorish-style two-story building at the corner of Colegio Militar and Hidalgo, has large comfortable rooms with private bath and sitting room for $35. The Todos Santos Inn, on Calle Legaspi, is a restored 19th-century adobe, furnished with antiques and oriental rugs, high-ceilinged rooms and two suites, all with private baths. Doubles start at $95. Miguel’s, on Calles Rango and Delgado, and Mariscos Mi Costa, on Colegio Militar near Ocampo, are palapa restaurants serving outstanding homemade fresh fish, chiles rellenos and, at Mariscos, delicious seafood soup. Recent dinners at both cost less than $35 for four people, including beer. The Santa Fé, a historic adobe off the central plaza, serves Northern Italian specialties using local fresh ingredients, served indoors and on patios. A rather elaborate seafood dinner recently cost about $60 a person with wine.

BAJA SAFARI RANCH. High in the mountains of the sierra de la Laguna, outside of Los Barriles, has a fine group of palm thatched casitas (palapa style) available for $147 per night to the public and $24 for Members of the Baja Safari Mexico Club. On the Ranch are waterfalls, hot-springs and hundreds of acres of wild fruit and mango trees, used in the native meals served here. 619-470-1890.

The Baja Safari Mexico Club provides a 10% discount at all of the listed business in this article, Membership can be accomplished for only $25, ONLINE at  http://bajasafari.com/

Sylvia Casas, Author.

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Fiesta Time! Crab Empanada Recipe

Fiesta time! With the Baja Safari Mexico Club

 Steal this crab empanada recipe Liven up your dinner with help from chef Roberto Santibañez of Rosa Mexicano in New York City and his Latin pastry specialty Rosa Mexicano Recipes

Baja Safari Mexico Club you recipes “stolen” (with permission) from notable restaurants across America. See how much fun you can have (and money you can save) by cooking these dishes at home.

THIS WEEK: Empanadas de Jaiba (Crab Empanadas) Empanadas are popular Latin fried stuffed pastries served as a main dish or as an appetizer. Although they are thought to have originated in Spain, several other Latin countries have their own versions stuffed with cheese, meat, or seafood. Rosa Mexicano in New York City has a great recipe for Empanadas de Jaiba (Crab Empanadas). These are also great as part of a “tapas” meal. Served as snacks/appetizers, empanadas can be shared by everyone. 

 

————— Rosa Mexicano ——————————————————-

 

About the chef: Chef Roberto Santibañez was born in Mexico City and began cooking at an early age, encouraged by his grandmother, who traveled extensively and shared her recipes from abroad. By the time Santibañez was in high school, he was already catering parties for his friends and family. After college, Santibañez left for Paris, France, to gain a classical culinary foundation at the renowned Le Cordon Bleu, where he obtained three diplomas with honors and worked at several restaurants, including La Bourgogne. He continued his culinary studies at Le Notre, where he received two additional certificates. Following two years as the executive chef of the Henbury Estate in Cheshire, England, Santibañez returned to Mexico City to cook for the Foreign Affairs Ministry and El Olivo restaurant, where he “rediscovered” the complexities of Mexican cuisine.

“I was ready to combine all that I had learned with everything I felt in my heart,” explains Santibañez. He soon opened his own restaurants El Sax, La Circunstancia, and Restobar Salamandra in downtown Mexico City. Seeking new challenges, Santibañez left Mexico in 1997 to become the executive chef of Fonda San Miguel in Austin, Texas. Santibañez has also traveled extensively as an ambassador for Mexican cuisine, presenting lectures and demonstrations at the Culinary Institute of America and other institutions throughout the US, Mexico, Brazil, Argentina, Chile and Australia. In 2002, Santibañez joined the team at Rosa Mexicano as culinary director, continuing Rosa’s rich tradition of Mexican cooking while incorporating the vivid regional and multicultural currents that make up modern Mexican cuisine. Empanadas de Jaiba is served at Rosa Mexicano for $12.00.

This recipe is meant to serve 2 as a meal and 3 to 4 as an appetizer. Crab Empanada Filling Ingredients Yields 1-1/2 cups 1 ounce butter 1/2 cup white onion, chopped 1 tablespoon jalapeno, seeded and chopped 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin 3/4 teaspoon crumbled oregano 1/2 cup crème fraiche 1/2 pound jumbo lump crab meat Salt to taste Other Ingredients 1-1/2 cups Crab Empanada Filling Turnover (or empanada) dough, frozen (can be found in most supermarkets) Canola oil, for pan frying Steal This Recipe® Step-by-Step Instructions Crab Empanada Filling Instructions Heat the butter in a sauce pan until it starts to color slightly. Add onion and jalapeno to sauce pan and cook until onion is soft and translucent. Add the cumin and oregano and cook for 1 minute. Add cream, bring to a boil and cook for 3 minutes at medium heat (in order to infuse well with other ingredients). Season liberally with salt. Mix the crab meat with the crème fraiche. Toss the crab mixture into the sauce pan, carefully keeping the lumps as whole as possible. Add salt to taste. Empanada Instructions Defrost turnover dough until soft to the touch, pliable to fold. Remove 1 sheet of dough. Fill each sheet with 2 tablespoons of the crab filling. Fold over and seal, crimping the edges with the tines of a fork. Over medium to high heat (not smoking) in a heavy bottom sauté pan add enough canola oil to cover the empanada half way, approximately 1/4 inch. Heat the oil until approximately 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Add empanadas, one at a time, and fry until golden brown. Remove from oil and place atop paper towels until slightly cooled.

 Serve and enjoy! Rosa Mexicano serves Empanadas de Jaiba with peach pico de gallo and salsa verde, but a favorite salsa can easily substitute.  Sylvia, Author.

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Friday, January 13, 2006

Mexican COKE in the US

Wall Street Journal Reports On Influx of Mexican Coke In The U.S.

 A front page article in Wednesday’s edition of The Wall Street Journal reported that Coca Cola produced in Mexico is making its way to the U.S., where Hispanics prefer it over Coke products from U.S. bottlers. The article noted that “Mexican” Coke, which carries a higher price point, comes in glass bottles with Mexican labeling and that Hispanics can taste the difference. The article noted that Mexican cola is made with cane sugar and not high-fructose corn syrup, which U.S. bottlers use. The article noted that the company assigned a team to investigate ways to prevent the distribution of “Mexican” Coke in the U.S., since these arrangements violate the bottlers’ exclusive distribution rights in certain territories.  Courtesy: Wall Street Journal

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Wednesday, January 11, 2006

Cabo Travel Updates

Baja Safari NOW

The Baja Safari Mexico Club Los Cabos Travel Update

The downtown/marina hotel known for many years as the Plaza Las Glorias than recently as the Costa Real has been sold to TESORO RESORTS. Upgrades are expected.

BISBEE BIG GAME FISHING Tournaments 2006

East Cape Tournament   August 1-5

CABO Offshore Tournament October 20-22

Famous Marlin Tournament  October 24-28  

Baja Safari Mexico Club offers Travel Professionals and MEDIA writers SPECIAL travel offerings in February 2006. Contact us directly for details at caboclub@cox.net  or   T -  619-470-1890

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Baja Whale Safari

Baja Safari NOW  Exclusive

See and touch whales,  from barren desert to sea, and expect the unexpected.

We topped a ridge to see a vast panorama of jumbled boulders, chocolate-brown hills and red, flat-topped mesas. Marching up and down the slopes were legions of giant cactus, all of them armed, dangerous and starkly beautiful. I inhaled sharply, startled by the curious splendor of the place. We had entered a magical region of Baja California’s Desierto Central (Central Desert). It was a scenic payoff for the arduous miles we had driven on Route 1, the Transpeninsular Highway. It was one of many such payoffs during a four-day adventure on Baja’s mother road.

The journey took us through the heart of Mexico’s last frontera, a desolate region seen by few of the 24 million tourists who visit Baja annually to play or fish in the waters off Los Cabos or shop in the stores of Tijuana or Ensenada. But the untamed interior of Baja offers unparalleled sights: The Baja Safari guide calls it the “most fascinating desert scenery in North America.” There are forests of cactus that soar 60 feet in the air, animals seen nowhere else in the world, missions that look much as they did when founded by the Spaniards in the 1700s. Away from the Central Desert, there are other bonuses: sandy beaches rarely visited, turquoise lagoons full of whales and other sea life, laid-back resorts offering sunrise sport fishing on the Gulf of California. And Route 1 makes all of this accessible to those with a bit of adventure in their soul — and the fortitude to cope with some occasional hazards.

“It’s not like driving the freeways of California,” said Ron White of Newport Beach, a Route 1 regular. “It’s dog-eat-dog out here. You have to have water and food and be ready for most anything to happen.” Old-timers say today’s perils are nothing compared with those before the Transpeninsular Highway (Route 1) opened in 1973 to connect Tijuana with Cabo San Lucas, more than 1,050 miles south. Before the road’s completion, the trip from Tijuana to La Paz, the capital of Baja Sur, took travelers nearly two weeks on washboard dirt roads. And Cabo was 137 miles farther south.

Today’s travelers, if they encounter no problems, can make the journey to Cabo in two long days. Get insurance and information through the club at http://bajasafari.com/  But rugged terrain and unpredictable forces of nature can turn the best-laid plans inside out, as we learned during our wild ride. A smooth beginning my buddy and I crossed the U.S.-Mexico border at San Ysidro before 7 a.m. on a gray February morning, bound for the whale-calving lagoons of central Baja. We rolled through the streets of Tijuana at dawn and zipped onto 1D, called the Scenic Road, a four-lane toll highway leading to the seaside resort of Ensenada. The road, a 60-mile stretch of expressway along Baja’s rapidly developing Gold Coast, would be the easiest part of our journey. It was also a bargain at around $7.

The highway was fast, expansive views of the Pacific greeted us around the zigzagging turns, and good restaurants beckoned, if we had wanted to take the time to stop. We didn’t. Drizzle had begun to dog us, slowing our progress. At El Mirador, an overlook north of Ensenada, the rain stopped for a moment and a shaft of sunlight broke through. The sweeping coastal panorama came alive with golden morning light. Approaching Ensenada, the toll road vanished, and we moved sluggishly through town, caught in traffic and waiting for lights to change. When we finally left the city behind, farmland, hills and the vineyards of Santo Tomás appeared. As we entered the village, colorful murals and stickers announced El Palomar Restaurant, and we decided it was time for breakfast. So did our two passengers: Gail’s son, Zack, and his friend Scott Kemp, both 15. Gail and I have worked together before; when we planned this trip, she mentioned that Zack would be out of school. I told her to bring him; kids and whales are an unbeatable combination.

The boys had slept for the first few hours of our journey; now they were ready to eat. Seafood omelets helped all of us to wake up. Back on the highway, we passed more farmland and eventually bounced through a few towns. Speed bumps appear here and there on the Transpeninsular Highway. They’re the easiest way for tiny Baja towns to slow travelers on a road where children sometimes play. The towns are interesting, but they aren’t pretty. Most are scruffy, hardscrabble villages where skinny dogs chase cars, bright signs advertise tacos and used tires, and hawkers sell nuts and oranges from roadside tables. On this day, lakes of red mud had formed from the rainstorm that seemed to be preceding us. We congratulated ourselves on our good fortune in avoiding it.

In San Quintín, about 190 miles south of the border, cultivated fields of prickly pear cactus — nopales — covered the landscape. We stopped to look. The leaves were palm-sized and bright green and looked ready to harvest. The cactus is a staple in Latin American diets; it is served as often as green beans in U.S. homes. Three miles west of Route 1, a lovely bay — Bahía San Quintín — catered to anglers and hunters. A handful of motels lined its edge. It was another hour before we reached our next landmark, the town of El Rosario. The last 50 miles had been increasingly monotonous, as farmland disappeared and barren badlands appeared. We were now heading away from the Pacific into the heart of Baja; it would be 200 miles more before Route 1 returned to the sea. I hadn’t been looking forward to this part of the journey, but it didn’t take long for me to realize this was Baja’s desert at its finest. As we drove deeper into Desierto Central, I decided it was also Baja’s desert at its strangest. Some cactuses were majestic: the towering cardón, perhaps the world’s tallest at 60 feet, or the organ pipe, with its many arms stretched to the sky. Others were just weird. The gangly cirio is as odd as its nickname, the “boojum tree.” Cirios look a bit like giant candles, with misshapen whiskers growing at their tops.

We pulled over to the side of the road, and the boys clambered up and down boulders and hiked around for a while, as amazed by the odd flora as I was. Scientists say that about 120 types of cactus are found on the Baja Peninsula. It didn’t take long to spot several from the roadside: barrel cactus, ocotillo, saguaro, yucca. And it didn’t take long for the teddy bear cholla to find me and wedge a spine into my leg. It’s not surprising that its nickname is “jumping cholla.” It was now late afternoon. We had paid in advance for hotel rooms at Cataviña, a desert outpost a few miles farther south. But as we drove toward it, we noticed a line of cars in the road ahead. We pulled up behind RVs, trucks, buses, sedans, a Hummer and other SUVs. People were milling around, so we got out and milled around too.

At the front of the line was a brand-new river, courtesy of the rainstorm that had preceded us. It was running through Route 1. We had rented a four-wheel-drive SUV for this trip, but I wasn’t sure I wanted to ford a river, especially because it seemed nearly as deep as the SUV was tall. Gail and I hunted down the Hummer’s driver, who wasn’t keen on fording the river either. “OK, so I’m conservative,” said Larry Fleishman of Boca Raton, Fla., the Hummer’s owner. “It’s new. I don’t want to ruin it.” A Baja bus driver decided to go for it. He gunned the motor and made it across, the backsplash reaching halfway to the windows. Within half an hour he was back. “There’s an even deeper washout ahead,” he shouted from the bus window. “I think the water’s 25 feet deep. Impossible to get across it.” “What are we going to do?” I asked Gail. Neither of our choices seemed great. The water was getting deeper, and it didn’t appear that it would clear soon.

Neither of us particularly wanted to sleep in the car. But where would we stay? It was about 70 miles back to El Rosario, and we weren’t sure there were rooms. And now it was dark. People always advise against driving in Baja after dark. Even during daylight, the road had been treacherous: narrow, hilly, with many blind curves and no guardrails. And there could be more flash floods. We chose driving in the dark over sleeping in the car. It was a white-knuckle ride, with a couple of burros crossing the road when least expected. But our rewards were comfortable, inexpensive rooms in El Rosario at the Baja Cactus Motel and lobster tacos next door at Mama Espinosa’s, a Baja landmark. The next morning, we tackled the Central Desert again. It was just as beautiful this time, and the flooded areas had cleared enough so that we could ford them. We hurried on toward Central Baja’s Pacific Coast lagoons, where whales were frolicking. And where we wanted to frolic too. Close encounters CALIFORNIA gray whales are a bit like us: They like spending the winter in warm places. About 10,000 of them leave the chilly waters of the Bering Sea each year for a 12,000-mile round trip to the shallow, languid bays of Baja, where calves are born and the whales unwind for a few months, their numbers peaking in February. Among their recreational activities, it seems, is communing with humans. I’d heard tales of their friendliness in the warm lagoons of Mexico, but I wasn’t sure whether to believe them. Hunted nearly to extinction in the late 1800s and early 20th century, the whales now have protected status. And there are thousands in three major Baja bays: Laguna Ojo de Liebre (also called Scammon’s Lagoon), halfway down the peninsula; Laguna San Ignacio, 100 miles farther south; and Bahía Magdalena, north of La Paz. We had hoped to see whales in both Ojo de Liebre, near the town of Guerrero Negro, and San Ignacio. We had reserved an organized tour in Guerrero Negro, but we didn’t make it in time. So we fishtailed our way 15 miles through deep red mud on an unpaved side road leading to the lagoon, where 22-foot skiffs were waiting to take tourists out. The 90-minute tour cost $35 and brought us face to face with dozens of whales. The babies were particularly curious, popping their heads out of the water within a few feet of our tiny boat to take long looks at us. The experience was every bit as amazing as people had said. But the boys were disappointed; they wanted to touch a whale. Although the whales came close, none came close enough to pet. Once again, we were behind schedule.

We returned to Route 1 and started south, in the dark, for San Ignacio, where we had reservations at La Pinta Hotel, a good chain with motels in six Baja locations. By now, we had become accustomed to driving in the dark, and we tried not to think about flash floods, errant burros or cars without lights. San Ignacio was a beautiful change from the towns we’d seen earlier — a lush desert oasis with date palm trees, a lovely central square and 277-year-old Misión San Ignacio. It was the first town we had seen that felt like Old Mexico. But when we checked into whale watching, we learned it wouldn’t be easy.

Laguna San Ignacio, we were told, was at the end of a 40-mile dirt road, made nearly impassable now by mud. People said they thought we could make it in our four-wheel drive, but it would be slow. With our time running out, we reluctantly decided to head north and take a second look at the whales in Ojo de Liebre. This time, I asked the boys to count how many whales they saw. In the first half-hour, Scott saw 16 and Zack counted 30. My own count was 36. Once again, we seemed to be a draw for babies and moms. A duo did a water ballet around and under our small boat. The baby emerged from the water near my hand and I reached out to touch it, but at the last minute pulled back, afraid I’d upset the skiff if I leaned over too far. None of us touched a whale that day. But they touched us. And I can’t wait to go back to try again.  Call the club at 619-470-1890. 

Sylvia Casas, Author. 

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American Sportsman Help Ensenada

American Fisherman Help Ensenada       Baja Safari NOW

Ensenada, Baja North, Mexico,- January 10, 2006-

 Visitors to Ensenada from cruise ships or those driving down for a day of golf at Bajamar don’t ever see what a group of Rotarians witnessed over the weekend in the mountains east of one of Baja’s bigger cities and ports. It was there, up in the impoverished mountain villages of Guadalupe Valley, that over 20 San Diego Rotarians and their families teamed up Saturday with the Ensenada Centenaria Rotary Club and the Sportfishing Association of California (SAC) to help some of Mexico’s poor. The program, “Fish Across the Border,” is in its 13th year, and this year, thanks to the San Diego-based fleet’s incredible catches of those 200-pound yellowfin, the Rotarians handed out a program record 294 cases of tuna. That’s 14,112 cans of tuna, as well as staple food items, blankets and toys for kids. Over 500 families had a little more food and were a little warmer thanks to the group’s kindness and community spirit. “It was a record in terms of donations because of that great fishing the fleet has had for those great big yellowfin,” said Bob Fletcher, president of the Sportfishing Association of California, member of the San Diego Rotary and honorary member of the Ensenada Centenaria Rotary. Fletcher added that the long-range anglers on the SAC-member, Point Loma-based sport boats donated some of their catches and “were thrilled to be able to give back to Mexico for the privilege of fishing in their bountiful waters.”

Fletcher said the 45-minute drive off the highway and into the mountains east of Ensenada is over a dirt road and into another world. “Talk about isolated,” Fletcher said. “These people are living in shacks with outhouses. The homes look like they’ve been thrown together, some with no foundations. Some have electricity, some don’t. We visited 11 different settlements in all and went into the early evening distributing the goods.” Fletcher said the San Diego Rotary collected and helped distribute the goods, which included blankets from the Avalon Rotary and additional cash from the Montebello and Vista Rotary Clubs. Close to $2,000 was given to the Ensenada Rotary to help purchase other staple food items. Fletcher said the group met Dr. Eloy Perez, an Ensenada Rotarian, late Saturday at his home to celebrate the 13th successful year of donating.

Fletcher said the motto of Rotary is “Service Above Self,” and this group exemplified that. He said the Ensenada Centenaria Rotary members and their families work 12 months a year to help make life easier for many of Baja’s poorer families.  Sylvia Casas, Author.

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Tuesday, January 10, 2006

Baja North Gov Q & A

Baja Safari NOW

Q&A: Eugenio Elorduy Walther; governor of Baja California

Jan 10,2006.  GOVERNOR OF BAJA CALIFORNIA - Eugenio Elorduy Walther, a member of Mexico’s center-right National Action Party since 1968, was elected governor of Baja California in 2001. Prior to that he served as the state’s finance minister, mayor of Mexicali and secretary of foreign affairs for the PAN. CNS Photo by John R. McCutchen. Elorduy Walther, a member of Mexico’s center-right National Action Party since 1968, was elected governor of Baja California in 2001. Prior to that, he served as the state’s finance minister, mayor of Mexicali and secretary of foreign affairs for the PAN. This is an edited transcript of his interview with members of the San Diego Union-Tribune’s editorial board.

Q: How do you see the state of relations between Baja California and California, and between Tijuana and San Diego, with all of the challenges we have and all of the promises and potential? A: I can tell you that from my experience first as a businessman and then in politics. I’ve been in PAN (Mexico’s National Action Party) since 37 years ago. I’ve had the opportunity to see both sides of the stadium, let’s say. As a businessman and in public office. And I’ve always felt that this is a region, this is a place where there is obviously a border that divides the two countries. But we should not be divided just because we are in two different countries. I see, as you mentioned, common challenges, common opportunities. We have been advancing, especially I would say in the last 15-20 months more intensively in this. And particularly I would say in the last half year.

Q: Advancing in which issue? A: For example, we have set up a very good working relationship that I did not have before with Governor Schwarzeneggar, since July. He came to Mexicali in September. I went to see him on the fifth of December in Los Angeles. And he’ll be coming back into Mexicali probably around the end of February, beginning of March. So that’s a reality that we didn’t have before. Q: What is on the agenda for the two of you? A: Interesting topics. Education, sports, culture, economic development, migration reform, even though it’s a federal situation in the U.S. It’s still a reality in both our states. This probably is the most intense place of where it happens of any place on the border. We need more border crossings. We need more high tech equipment on those border crossings because we have thousands and thousands of people crossing every day in the morning who are very, very well known, in fact they spent probably 30 or 40 years of their lives working here. And they have to sit in their cars up to two hours every day in the morning. We’ve got to get them quicker across the border.

Q: What are you doing? A: San Diego County is losing $2 billion in sales according to a SANDAG (San Diego Association of Governments) study that was made a few months ago. We have set up an initial agreement with UCSD (University of California San Diego) through Chancellor Marye Anne Fox and we had a meeting on the 30th of November in Tijuana. We now have an agenda of working together around the University of Baja and UCSD. About topics having to do with development and investigation of opportunities to create jobs on both sides of the border. That’s something that is already happening. We hope to have some results on that by February.

Q: What about the border bottleneck? It certainly got a lot worse after 9/11. What can the two states do to alleviate that problem? It’s primarily a federal problem on this side, anyway. A: At least, let’s do this. President Fox and I agree there can be and should be another crossing in Otay - Otay 2. We have the land. We have the money to construct a building.

Q: This would be east of the existing crossing? A: Yes. And that ties in to a highway that we will be finishing in March of about 42 kilometers between the freeway that goes to Tecate and the Pacific Ocean where Fox Studios is. And this new border crossing would tie in to that very well. But we have to get the U.S. side to agreed to that. And Governor Schwarzeneggar has agreed with me that he will work with his federal government to get the authorization. This is a very bogged-down procedure. It’s a swap. It’s got to do with the U.S. Department of State and our department of state, if you want to call it that, our foreign affairs secretary. And they get together every six months. To get a border crossing you have to wait 10-12 years. It’s ridiculous. There are five times more border crossings between Canada and the U.S. than between Mexico and the U.S. So these long lines are due to that because we need more border crossings. But we also need some kind of an ID for all of these people who come across every day for many, many years and are very, very well known. But you have this SENTRI situation where it takes months to get it authorized. It lasts only two years and you have to go through the same procedure again when it expires. And they ask you for everything except your death certificate to be able to authorize it. And we feel that there should be more flexibility in that.

Q: A streamlining. A: Yes, and I am aware of safety on the border, of course. I am very much aware of that and I do not want to belittle it in any fashion. But we have been effective in detecting illegal migration from Middle Eastern countries coming through us and we have stopped them. And we have returned them. Q: How have you done that? A: At the airport, for example, primarily. When they come in from flights from Mexico City. And they come in with false passports, obviously. Turkish passports, and other types of passports. They come in through South America sometimes.

Q: For a while the Chinese seemed to want to try to get in to the U.S. through Baja. A: That has been stopped. A few ships, as you know.

Q: Wasn’t that last spring? A: No, that was longer ago. But we are doing an effective job of policing our border in terms of people who are not documented. Because also you have an attractiveness here. You have a population of Iraqis in San Diego County. And of Iranians. And with all due respect to these people, obviously this pulls in their own people from these countries.

Q: How do you feel about Congressman Duncan Hunter’s proposal to build a wall all the way from the Pacific to Brownsville? A: Ridiculous.

Q: What kind of impact would it have on the border? A: You can construct as many walls as you want and as long and tall as you want them. It will not stop the reality of human survival. We have our responsibility in our country to provide jobs, obviously, to keep our people in our country. It hurts us very much as Mexicans to have our people have to leave our country because they don’t have opportunities in Mexico. That’s our situation. That’s why we need obviously to create more jobs. That’s why we need structural reform from our congress. Fiscal, energy, labor reforms. Which President Fox has been trying to get across in the Mexican congress without any luck, unfortunately. So we need to create more jobs, obviously. At least Baja California, my state, is doing its job. We are the second state in creation of jobs. We are creating 11 percent of Mexican jobs. This year we have already hit our target of close to 50,000 jobs. We’ve received $1.6 billion in investment this year. You referred to Congressman Hunter. I think it’s very important to not live in denial of the reality. This is what Governor Schwarzeneggar and I agree on 100 percent. This is a human rights situation. We need to have from the U.S. Congress a reform that recognizes this reality of people going across. I am very worried about the current Sensenbrenner initiative in the U.S. House of Representatives.

Q: What are your concerns about it? A: Because this gentleman is proposing to penalize with jail whoever is caught (without documents) in your country l and also the employer and also whoever helps and abides with him. I think this is not the way to do things. These people who go across are not criminals. They are not people that are going to terrorize your country. These are people who are helping the economy of the U.S. And without them what would happen? So we have to be objective about this. The U.S has to safeguard its borders. Absolutely. As any country, it has its rights. But the U.S. has to recognize a reality. As the European countries have recognized. When the Iron Curtain went down, they recognized that they had to obviously bring the harmony to people from Hungary, from Romania, from the Soviet Union, etc. So you have this flow of people in Europe which is a reality and it’s being acknowledged as such. Because everybody is needed. You’re also having this situation in Southeastern Asia. So what we need here is a reform. For example, Mr. Bush proposes one, very good. McCain-Kennedy has another proposal which looks interesting because it recognizes the necessity of working in the U.S. The Sensenbrenner initiative is to put them in jail. How are the businessmen in the U.S. going to feel about that? They’re going to be hurting.

Q: Why is there a reluctance on the part of the Mexican congress to do what they need to do? A: (It’s) political. They do not want Fox to be successful. So the PRI (Institutional Revolutionary Party) is (refusing) to authorize these reforms.

Q: But they also don’t want to do them themselves when they are in power. Why is that? A: In fact, it’s curious because they are now proposing some of these reforms, like the energy reform, for (PRI presidential candidate Roberto) Madrazo. So why don’t they authorize them right now? Why wait until he says he wins to have them authorized? And these reforms are nothing new under the sun because they collect other initiatives that have been presented in fact by their own party in other times but haven’t been able to get passed because within certain attitudes that people have, and this includes congressmen from Mexico, they feel that sometimes nationalistic fervor has to go before common good. And so why let private foreign investment in strategic fields like producing gasoline? And we feel that’s ridiculous. You can’t close yourselves out from reality. If you don’t have enough public funds, you’ve got to allow private funds. The Mexican government can keep the oil (industry). We are never going to sell that. We’re never going to let foreign companies out there be producing oil. But we can use private companies to produce gasoline, diesel, natural gas, etc., as long as we hold on to the primary essence of the source. Let me answer your question here about energy. In Baja, as you know, a little bit north of Ensenada there is construction going on by a consortium involving Shell. And it’s a liquid natural gas storage place. This is probably this gas will probably come either from Southwestern Australia or the Russian peninsula where Shell has some gas fields. This is very good for Baja and also good for California and whatever other states receive the natural gas. Baja needs natural gas. Our companies in Baja need it, our homes need it. So I think it’s going to be a very good situation that is very well covered with all the rules and regulations and laws of our country. Public hearings, eight of them, to get this authorized.

Q: How would the gas get to the United States? Does a new pipeline have to be built? A: Yes, a new pipeline up until you hit more or less Rosarito because you already have a north/south pipeline from Rosarito to the border. We receive natural gas right now from the U.S. But, unfortunately, natural gas in the U.S. is almost an oligopoly. The prices are semi-controlled by a very few companies. So prices are very easily going up, etc. You’ve felt it in your own state.

Q: Has it already been decided that the Sempra/Shell project will be built? A: It is being built.

Q: What in your view will be the legacy of President Fox and how do you analyze the campaign so far to succeed him? A: First, there was a very intense but peaceful democratic transition in 2000. Nothing (bad) happened in Mexico. If you would have asked many people in the U.S., analysts, editorial boards, in ‘99, there would have been very natural understandable expressions of worry. What’s going to happen with the PRI? Will they let go?

Q: Some thought that the PRI wouldn’t let the PAN win but they were wrong A: Yes. But I have to recognize one thing. It is very important. There hasn’t been enough recognition that (then-Mexican President Ernesto) Zedillo was crucial in this decision. He acted institutionally. This was a tremendous example of what we need more of. So, we expect another democratic, peaceful transition. It will be, God willing, when he leaves office on the first of December of 2006.

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Aeromexico expands service from San Diego

Aeromexico, Mexico’s largest airline, announced expanded service from San Diego to Mexico City beginning January 12, 2006. The airline, which had until recently offered two weekly non-stop flights to Mexico City, is now doubling its service with non-stop flights from San Diego to Mexico City four days a week. In addition to the added flights, Aeromexico will continue to offer San Diego travelers daily service to Mexico City via Los Cabos, and two weekly non-stop flights each to Puerto Vallarta, and Loreto. “In addition to our signature service, we are pleased to provide San Diego residents with greater choice and flexibility when traveling to Mexico,” said Jose Kuri, Sr. Vice President of the U.S. Division for Aeromexico. “San Diego is an important gateway for both Mexicans and Mexican-Americans residing in Southern California, as well as area professionals who frequently travel to Mexico for business. We look forward to sharing our traditional Mexican hospitality with them and hosting them on a future flight.” Aeromexico will operate the new weekly non-stop flights from San Diego International Airport to Mexico City International Airport on Mondays, Thursdays, Fridays and Sundays according to the following schedule: San Diego - Mexico City Flight # AM 491 Departs 5:15 PM Arrives 10:35 PM Mexico City - San Diego Flight # AM 490 Departs 7:00 AM Arrives 8:40 AM Aeromexico is committed to consistently exceeding passengers’ expectations and takes pride in its high level of service. All passengers, including coach class, enjoy full meals, complimentary cocktails, exceptional in-flight service, and superior on-time performance.
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Monday, January 9, 2006

Todays Cabo!

Tons of water for ocean lovers, plenty of sand for desert dwellers and the beauty of Baja California for absolutely everyone

If Las Vegas or Palm Springs were next to an ocean, it would likely look much like Los Cabos, the region at the tip of the Baja California peninsula where the deep blue Pacific Ocean and the aquamarine Gulf of California meet the stark contrast of the desert.It’s the best of both worlds for ocean lovers and desert dwellers alike. People come to Los Cabos for many reasons. Some venture down in winter to watch 50-foot gray whales on their migration, and others to witness giant turtles laying eggs on the sandy shore. Some simply sit on an expansive veranda, margarita in hand, watching vivid sunsets. Visitors have a choice of staying in Cabo San Lucas, San Jose del Cabo or what is called the tourist corridor — a 20-mile stretch of beachfront properties in between the two towns and a retreat of elegant resorts and timeshares, along with seven golf courses designed by professionals such as Jack Nicklaus and Robert Trent Jones II. The three areas could not be more different. Locals refer to Cabo San Lucas as a “fiesta” town, San Jose del Cabo as a “siesta” and the corridor as the place to relax on some of the world’s most pristine and sparsely populated beaches. Cabo San Lucas is also a contrast. On one end, it is home to breathtaking natural sights such as The Arch, Lover’s Beach and Land’s End, the spot where the shattering surf of the Pacific meets the tranquil Gulf. On the other end, it is a party town with an Americanized feel to it in a beachy kind of way.

Think tequila body shots in an endless array of clubs. Think Costco, American fast-food chains and even Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse. Lots of people, and shopping, shopping, shopping. Truth be told, Cabo San Lucas was the brainchild of the Mexican government, a “created” tourist destination much like Mexico’s other tourist resort towns. It’s definitely a party town and definitely a place to find more than a few outstanding locally owned restaurants, such as Mi Casa and Edith’s. While you are at Mi Casa, take a peek at the old photo of the town square of old Cabo. San Jose del Cabo, twenty miles to the east, is a true Mexican town replete with a small plaza in front of a twin-spired church and wide, tree-lined streets. Wandering musicians, children chasing balls, families listening to free concerts in the bandstand and a fountain water show along Boulevard Mijares cast the small-town atmosphere. At the end of Boulevard Mijares, in the center of town, is a 125-acre estuary, home to more than 200 species of coastal bird life such as ring-necked ducks, herons, egrets and pelicans. It was this water source that appealed to the early Spaniards and convinced them this was a good spot to set up camp. Although this doesn’t look like a town where you would find fine dining, looks can be deceiving. Several good restaurants exist, and they are much more affordable than those found in Cabo San Lucas or the corridor. Damiana, housed in an 18th-century hacienda at the plaza’s eastern edge, is probably the best-known. It specializes in local seafood, offering up specialties such as Abalone in Guajillo Sauce and Bay Scallops Ceviche. Open since 1983, it has been reviewed by numerous publications, including Bon Appetit magazine. Romance lives on its 40-seat patio, replete with candlelight, the splash of a fountain and tiny lights twinkling in a towering old tree that grows center stage. Another one not to miss is La Panga Antigua on Ignacio Zaragoza. Its chef and co-owner studied at the Culinary Institute of America. Don’t miss the lobster starter with pumpkin seed sauce or the sautéed shrimp in chardonnay and butter sauce studded with chipotle and pineapple over polenta. In between the two towns, the corridor is home to many of the area’s most elegant resorts. It’s easy to check into one of these establishments and not leave until it’s time to return to the airport. With magnificent beaches, reverie-like infinity-edge swimming pools, swim-up bars, beachside spas where you can get a massage under a palapa overlooking the water, tropical settings and truly outstanding restaurants, there’s really not much reason to leave. One can simply fade into bliss here, and that’s certainly not a bad way to spend a vacation.

Los Cabos History

Although Los Cabos was settled by local indigenous groups, Spanish Conquistador Hernán Cortés is credited with discovering the area for the Western world in 1535. With its abundance of fresh water, wildlife and protected coves, he thought it would provide a much-needed respite for Spanish galleons sailing between Manila and Acapulco. Unfortunately, the area also provided the perfect hideaway for pirates who sought to relieve the galleons of their treasure. In 1635, King Philip II of Spain ordered permanent settlements that remain today in San Jose del Cabo, La Paz and Todos Santos. The area slumbered until pilots flying over the tip of Baja during World War II spotted schools of big game fish in the waters and returned after the war. During the postwar years, the area became the play yard of wealthy yachtsmen and celebrities eager to try their hand at landing the giant billfish for which the area became well-known. But it wasn’t until John Steinbeck published “Sea of Cortez: A Leisurely Journal of Travel and Research” in 1941 with marine biologist Ed Ricketts, followed by “The Log From the Sea of Cortez” in 1951, that much of the world became familiar with the region. Over six weeks they sailed 4,000 miles from Monterrey, Calif., to the Gulf of California (Sea of Cortez) and back, collecting sealife specimens and inspecting tidal pools in what was then a little-explored coastline.

When you go

With the completion of Highway 1 that runs from the U.S. border to the tip of Baja and the opening of a new Los Cabos airport, the Mexican government has made the area highly accessible to tourists. A number of airlines service Los Cabos, including Aeromexico, AlaskaAir, Aero California, American Airlines and America West. Reserve a car ahead of time at any of the national car rental services such as National, Avis or Dollar or reserve a shuttle to your hotel with one of the transport services: http://bajasafari.com/  . Airport shuttles must be reserved at least 72 hours in advance but are well worth the effort because you will pay half for a round trip what a taxi will cost one way. If you rent a car in Mexico, be sure to buy Mexican insurance; it usually costs about $15 a day. American auto insurance does not apply in Mexico, and if you run into trouble you’ll need the Mexican insurance coverage. Go to http://www.baja-cabo.com/ When you walk through the terminal, beware of the time-share salesmen. But if you have a lot of time and don’t mind spending a morning at a presentation, you can garner some valuable tour and dinner certificates and a free bottle of tequila. Shopping deals: Look for silver from Taxco with the authentic .925 or .950 sterling mark, local arts and crafts, hand-painted Talavera pottery, and locally designed and manufactured resort wear. High season, meaning higher hotel rates, runs November through Memorial Day. The average year-round temperature is 78 degrees. During the high tourist season, the temperature is typically 80 during the day and cools to the 60s at night. In the low season, May to September, the temperature will go up to 100-plus during the day and stay in the upper 70s and low 80s in the evening. The average year-round water temperature in the Gulf is 72. During the summer months, the water temperature can reach the mid-80s. Average annual rainfall is 10 inches, most during September and October.  Contact the Baja Safari Club office for any help at 619-470-1890. 

Sylvia Casas, author.

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